Revista de ciencia e ingeniería textil

Dyeing Properties and Analysis by Rp-Hplc-Dad of Silk Fabrics Dyed with Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.)

Abstract

Karadag Recep, Torgan Emine and Erkan Gökhan

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been used for dyeing textiles since the Stone Age. Common madder produces pigments in its roots, such as alizarin, pseudopurpurin, purpurin, munjistin, rubiadin, xanthopurpurin, purpuroxanthin, lucidin, chinizarin, christofin, and antrhagallol. Madder gives a unique red colour to textiles. The aim of this study is to understand the effect of different mordant concentration on silk dyeing by using madder extract. Degummed and bleached, woven silk fabric was used. Alum [KAl(SO₄)₂.12H₂O] was used as mordant. All reagents were analytical grade. Silk fabrics were scoured by soap (35% w/w) at 90°C for 1.5 hours. Liquor ratio was 100:1. Dyeing was performed at 65°C, 100% owf, for 2 hours. Mordanting procedure was achieved at different mordant ratio, for 2 hours, at 65°C. All color measurements were performed using Minolta 3600D spectrophotometer (D65 illuminant, specular included, 10° observer angle). Colour fastness to washing, light, perspiration and rubbing was performed according to ISO 105 C06, ISO 105 B02, ISO 105 E04 and ISO 105 X12 respectively. Each dyed silk fabrics were analysed RP-HPLC-DAD. Semi-quantities of colouring compounds were determined in the dyed silk fabrics, depending on the amounts of mordant metal.